Back in 1816, when wine writer André Jullien penned The Topography of all the Known Vineyards, he wrote, “Volnay produces the lightest, most refined, and most agreeable of the wines of the Côte de Beaune,” and marveled at its charming bouquet, while bishop and theologian Jacques-Bénigne Bossuet would allow only Volnay wines to be served at his table. In them, he saw, “Courage, strength, joy, spiritual intoxication, and the transportation of the soul.” On the day he died, he ordered six barrels of Volnay to be delivered to the bishop’s palace in Meaux, to ensure nothing would be amiss at his funeral. It’s hard to imagine a more Burgundian gesture!
In the 18th century, historian Claude Courtépée and lawyer and king’s counsel Edme Beguillet were in agreement: if the former Dukes of Burgundy, Knights of Malta, monks of Maizières, and former kings enjoyed Volnay wines so much, it was because of the varied view, the fine air, and the excellence of the wines and waters of the land. For a long time, the village of Volnay produced what was known as le vin de primeur or paillé. After a brief spell in the vat and a quick press, the wine from these white grapes went into barrels and straight into the cellar. Then from the early 19th century onwards, red wines gradually replaced the œil-de-perdrix white, this terroir offering the most ardent and forthright expression of the Pinot Noir grape.